The Transylvanian Trail - An Adventure for the Whole Family
Updated: Aug 27
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Once upon a time I pictured Transylvania as a land of ancient castles perched on wild peaks (which, surprise surprise, turned out to be spot on 😍), with werewolves casually strolling about (seriously, some of these dogs could totally pull it off), misty forests (because, why not have the world’s spookiest forest, Hoia Baciu, right here?), and babbling streams revealing all sorts of secrets. But get this—reality is even more magical! Transylvania flaunts those jaw-dropping Carpathian mountains, epic castles like Peles, streets practically overflowing with cherry blossoms (definitely a mention needed in the top 5 of EU to see cherry blossoms), the mesmerizing glacial Bâlea Lake, and hey, even the legendary Transfăgărășan road where you might just spot a bear or two.
Isn’t it about time to pack your bags and experience the wonders of Transylvania for yourself?
Agenda: The Transylvanian Trail - An Adventure for the Whole Family Peles Castle and Sinaia Bran castle and Brasov Bear Watching, Transfagarasan Highway and Bâlea Lake Piatra Craiului National Park |
The Transylvanian Trail - An Adventure for the Whole Family
Peles Castle and Sinaia
It's feasible to visit both Peles Castle and Bran Castle in a single day if you begin early, like the guided tours from Bucharest typically do, starting at 7 am and continuing until the evening. However, since we were traveling with children and preferred a more relaxed pace, we didn't start for Peles Castle until 9:30 AM. The travel time from Brasov to Peles Castle is approximately 1 hour, while the journey to Bran Castle takes around 30 minutes. The distance between the two castles is also approximately 1 hour.
Peles Castle
By the time we arrived, the queue to enter the castle was already massive, and we estimated it would take nearly an hour to get inside. Fortunately, a kind stranger suggested that families with kids could go directly to the entrance and receive priority access, which was a blessing, though clearer instructions or assistance from castle staff would have been appreciated. Once inside, we were awestruck by the castle's grandeur! It was undoubtedly one of the most magnificent castles I've seen in Europe. It was evident why the queues were so long earlier in the day. Each room was adorned with lavish chandeliers, furniture, embroidery, and carpets. We were fascinated by the detailed information provided on placards outside each room, available in multiple languages.
This castle is basically the summer residence of the first King of Romania, Carol I of Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen and his wife, Queen Elisabeth of Wied and it was inaugurated in 1883. It was later expanded and renovated by the Czech architect Karel Lim after 1890, who is considered the chief architect of Peles Castle. I found this pretty interesting that from its inception, the castle boasted modern amenities such as central heating, electricity, running water, and even a telephone. By 1900, two electric elevators and a central vacuum cleaner were added. How quaint! Who would have thought a medieval fortress could rival the comforts of a modern-day mansion? Truly a marvel of the ages!
Walking through Peles Castle, you'll notice its main style is German Neo-Renaissance, inside and out. But as you explore, you'll find different vibes in certain spots – like Italian, French, Moorish, Turkish, and Modern styles mingling together. What's really cool is the intricate woodwork throughout, crafted by talented artisans from Germany and Austria. Inside, the furnishings tell stories of their own. There's Rococo furniture straight from Vienna, French pieces adorned with delicate floral patterns, and even Indian teakwood furniture adding character to the office space. As you take in the surroundings, colourful panels of Flemish leather catch your eye on the walls, while ornate baroque chandeliers light up every room. The most charming were the porcelain accents from France and Germany making every corner extremely elegant. Whew! Just imagine how many of these pieces would add a touch of elegance to my home decor! Of course, I didn't say that, and you didn't hear anything!
Helpful hint:
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Operating times: Wednesday to Sunday - 9:15 am–5 pm
Sinaia
Once you've marveled at the intricate details and stunning architecture of Peles Castle, your journey through Sinaia is just beginning. This picturesque town, located snugly at the foot of the Carpathian Mountains, is a true gem of Romania. Sinaia beckons travelers from around the world, considering it has so much to offer. As you step into its charming streets, you'll notice pine trees and beautifully preserved 19th-century buildings. Now, let's talk about the Ialomicioara Monastery and Cave. Head to this monastery, if you crave a peaceful atmosphere and the spiritual significance that you hardly get in a chaotic city life. And when you venture into the cave, you'll be awed by the natural beauty that surrounds you—stalactites and stalagmites everywhere, creating an otherworldly ambiance that's truly unforgettable. But the adventure doesn't end there. Next up, the Gondola Sinaia awaits. This is great acitivity todo with the kids and you also get to see panoramic views of the sprawling landscape below. So, why not make a day of it in Sinaia?
After satisfying our adventure cravings, we headed over to Ramayana, the Indian restaurant situated in the city center for lunch. Oh my goodness, the aroma of spices hit us as soon as we walked in! From rich curries to flavorful tandoori dishes, every bite was a journey to the streets of India. Besides it lay the cutest chimney cake shop, Karoly. It was impossible to resist the temptation, so we treated ourselves to some Kurtos Kalacs, also known as chimney cake, for dessert. Trust me, it's like biting into a piece of heaven! It was the perfect culinary adventure to complement our day of exploration in Sinaia.
Parking at Sinaia: We found this public parking spot Parcare cu platã - Hotel Rina Sinaia right next to the Ramayana restaurant where you can park your car with guarded watch for 15 lei/day if you park for 2 hours and 40 lei/day for over 2 hours. |
Bran castle and Brasov
Bran Castle
Now it was time to visit the much awaited Draculla's castle. Before visiting itself, I knew the Dracula story would just be a fable and there'd be no truth to it, but since it was such a riveting fable for years that I had heard, it was finally time to make that visit and learn the truth. We drove for an hour and reached Dracula's castle. From the parking itself, we could see the imposing silhouette of the Bran castle towering high on a hill. It looked mesmerising! The castle earned its nickname "Dracula Castle" solely because of Bram Stoker's book and his description of the the historical figure Vlad Dracula. Yet, the Irish writer is not believed to have visited Transylvania at any point.
The castle gardens were enclosed by a circular steel mesh, surrounded by a bustling flea market selling various trinkets, clothes, and toys. The street running into the market was packed with vendors selling street food, the fragrance of which emanated in the air and must I say I was thrilled at the prospect of getting my hands on this food after the castle tour. We jostled past these vendors and finally reached the entrance. Despite the imposing exterior of Bran Castle, the interior was a letdown. The castle was poorly adorned with fake Dracula figures, blood-stained table sheets, red roses, and spooky videos in some rooms. We hurriedly made our way through the castle, eager to explore its beautiful gardens below, which proved to be far more enchanting than the castle itself.
While it may offer stunning photo opportunities, during the day or particularly on a full moon night with the castle illuminated by the moon's glow, I wouldn't recommend the tour for any other reason.
Useful Tip:
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Operating times:
High and shoulder seasons - Tuesday to Sunday - 9 am to 6 pm; Monday - 12 pm to 6 pm
Winter season - Tuesday to Sunday - 9 am to 4 pm; Monday - 12 pm to 4 pm
Secure your tours for Peles Castle and Bran Castle by selecting one of the top-rated tours available on GetYourGuide (click on the preferred tour image below). It's important to note that many of these tours are conducted in groups of 20 or more individuals, and occasionally, small children may not be encouraged to participate. Make sure to review the tour description carefully before booking. If you prefer a private tour, please reach out to GYG customer care, and they will be able to arrange one for you. However, keep in mind that the cost of a private tour will be three times higher than that of a group tour.
Brasov
So, as we transitioned from the expansive highway to the charming cobblestone streets of Brasov, it felt like stepping into a different world. Our home away from home, Casa Chitic Hotel & Restaurant, nestled right in the heart of the old town, greeted us with a balcony view overlooking the majestic Tampa Mountain, complete with that iconic "BRASOV" sign that felt straight out of a movie.From our balcony, we watched adventurers setting off on foot to conquer the mountain, while the nearby gondola rail promised another exciting way to reach the summit. With our hotel perfectly situated, we wasted no time diving into the enchanting medieval streets of the Old Town.
Our first stop? The bustling Piata Sfatului, or Council Square, alive with activity and surrounded by charming pastel buildings housing cozy hotels and inviting restaurants. The historic City Hall clock tower stood proudly, its chimes echoing through the square and adding to the atmosphere. Next, we made our way to the awe-inspiring Black Church, its Gothic architecture telling tales of centuries past. And of course, no visit to Brasov would be complete without a leisurely stroll along Strada Republicii, indulging in some souvenir shopping and treating ourselves to the irresistible scent of freshly baked kurtoskalacs.And for outdoor enthusiasts like us, Brasov had plenty to offer. We heard whispers of the Seven Ladders Canyon and the breathtaking Piatra Mare massif, promising adventures and stunning views for those willing to explore.Brasov truly captured our hearts with its rich history, charming streets, and endless opportunities for adventure. It was a journey we'll never forget, filled with unforgettable moments and cherished memories.
Finding Parking within the old town of Brasov is a lot difficult. The best is if you bag a street parking otherwise there is a garage parking called the Military parking which is a 10 minute walk from the old town.
For a free walking tour of Brasov, book your slots here before they get sold out - FREE WALKING TOUR OF BRASOV
Bear Watching, Transfagarasan Highway and Bâlea Lake
Transfagarasan highway
Drive to transfagarasan highway which is like 3.5 hrs away from Brasov. We first checked in to our hotel Subcarpati and from this hotel the drive was 1 hour to Transfăgărășan (in Romanian) highway. Special mention for this hotel because of its ideal location making it an easy choice for travellers who want to explore the Transfagarasan and head back for the night and its special pampering services such as a private hot jacuzzi and body massage.
It feels like embarking on a thrilling adventure through the heart of Romania's stunning landscapes. This epic mountain road winds its way through the picturesque Southern Carpathian Mountains, linking Transylvania with Wallachia. As you navigate its twists and turns, you're treated to awe-inspiring views of towering peaks, deep valleys, and crystal-clear alpine lakes. Whether you're behind the wheel, cycling, or simply soaking in the scenery, exploring the Transfăgărășan is an experience that will stay with you forever.
For a Transfargasan Highway scenic group tour with pick up in a vehicle and guide, book your tour right here - LINK TO TOUR BOOKING.
Bear Spotting
We were fortunate to encounter bears in their natural habitat without needing to book a tour. Contrastingly, when my sister and her husband visited Romania in 2016, they were offered guided tour services for an unforgettable bear-spotting adventure. Perhaps at that time, the behavior of these normally sedentary creatures hadn't undergone such drastic changes. What I mean is, due to increased tourist activity over the years and their tendency to disregard local and natural regulations by feeding wild animals, bears have learned that approaching cars on the main highway may result in receiving fruits like apples or oranges from tourists. This has significantly altered the behavior of these typically shy animals over time. So, in 2016, animal behavior was still quite natural, and humans had to exert effort to observe them in the wild.
One such tour, the Private Small Group Bear Watching Tour From Braşov, takes participants to a secluded spot 20 minutes from the forest's edge. From this hideout, tourists patiently observe these 750-pound creatures, along with other diverse fauna such as wild boars, deer, and lynx, that inhabit the region. It's a four-hour expedition that is truly rewarding. However, it's important to note that despite an estimated 5500 bears residing in the area, sightings are not guaranteed, which is part of the allure of wildlife spotting.
Treehouse Village
As you wind your way through the breathtaking Transfargasan countryside, don't miss out on the chance to discover the enchanting Treehouse accommodations that dot the landscape. These rustic havens offer the perfect retreat for adventurous travelers seeking a taste of wilderness living. Imagine lounging on the couch, coffee in hand, surrounded by the sights and sounds of the forest—maybe even catching a glimpse of a bear from your cozy perch!
If you can’t spend a night or two, maybe stop to grab a coffee or cake or a delicious meal at the treehouse village restaurant, all while enjoying the peace of the great outdoors. Just keep your fingers crossed that the bears don't have a sweet tooth! But fear not, the area is well-equipped with electric wires to keep our furry friends at bay. You can capture beautiful images of the surroundings and breathe in some really fresh air far from the environs of the polluted city.
Bâlea Lake
Bâlea Lake, perched high at 2,034 meters in the majestic Făgăraș Mountains of central Romania, near Cârțișoara, Sibiu County, is a gem of a glacier lake, formed from the slow melting of a glacier, ensuring its chilly waters remain even during the warmer months.
Getting there is all part of the adventure:
Feeling adventurous and fit? Consider biking your way up to the lake.
Not up for the challenge? No worries, hop on the Balea Bus from Sibiu to Transfăgărășan, offering a convenient ride straight up to Bâlea Lake.
Private tours from Sibiu or Bucharest are also an option.
If you're without a car and coming from Sibiu, a combo of train and taxi will get you there in about 1 hour and 44 minutes, costing between $45 to $65.
Accessible by car via the Transfagarasan road during the warmer months, or by cable car from the “Balea Cascada” chalet during the rest of the year.
Book your Private Car Tour for Transfagarasan highway and Balea Lake via the tursted and recommended GetYourGuide link. Click on the below image.
Once you arrive, take a couple of hours to soak in the natural beauty of the lake. Fishing enthusiasts can try their hand at catching trout after getting the necessary permits sorted.
Just a few things to keep in mind:
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Piatra Craiului National Park
We couldn't include the trek to the Piatra Craiului National Park however my sister and brother-in-law embarked on this incredible journey through the stunning Carpathian Mountains, guided by a small tour of Piatra Craiului National Park from Brașov. They ventured on a trek of easy to medium difficulty, onroute encountering picturesque alpine meadows being grazed by flocks of sheep, wandering through fragrant forests, and exploring quaint villages until they reached an elevation of 1500 meters above sea level. Upon arrival, they unwound and relished a delicious meal along with a few beers at the restaurant of the Cabana Curmătura hotel, soaking in the beauty of their surroundings.
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After finishing the article I just felt that I returned from a an exhilarating trip. This is incredible. Keep writing. One day Lonely Planet must just approach you.
Brought back some wonderful memories of our visit back in 2016! Refreshing change from the other touristy destinations. Romania has our ♥️ Thank you for sharing our experience too 😊