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  • Writer's pictureAmy

The Mysteries and Realities of Fes el Bali's labyrinthine Medina

Updated: Mar 19

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Fes el Bali. Little did I imagine that my sojourn would thrust me into a real-life scene from the Prince of Arabia movie set! All through our drive from Chefchaouen to Fes, the endless green valleys mesmerized us. And we were awed by the amount of green pasture land that Morocco possessed.

Sweeping views from Borj Sud of Fes el Bali's timeless charm
Sweeping views from Borj Sud of Fes el Bali's timeless charm

Stepping into the heart of Fes el Bali

The landscape drastically changed as we neared the city limits of Fes el Bali. From a lush green it dramatically transformed into shades of sandy brown. A landscape unfolded outside our car window, where men rode rusty bicycles, pulling lengths of sponge behind them. Women, dressed in long gray and dark blue robes with only their faces visible, filled the streets with their ittar. Along the sidewalks, sandy walls of shops and pavements showed signs of neglect from years gone by, standing imposingly. When we entered the city, we were greeted by imposing beige walls reminiscent of a fortress, pristine streets, and broad roads. This was the Bab Sigma, a historic former Marinid gate, the towers of which still stand tall and strong. Once we crossed the gate, the landscape swiftly transitioned into a bustling panorama of tightly packed houses and alleys teeming with women draped in djellabas sitting by the garden with their kids screaming in a cemented square used as a park and men draped in Gandoura drinking mint tea and playing cards in a local cafe. I knew that instant that I was in the Athens of Africa. Venturing into the Medina enroute to our Riad, realization dawned that I was in one of the world's oldest cities.


Fes el Bli's Spellbinding Atmosphere
Fes el Bli's Spellbinding Atmosphere

Finding tranquility in our Riad oasis

Even from a distance, the sign for our Riad was clearly visible, largely perceptible in cursive writing ‘Riad Andalib’. It stood unassuming in the busy marketplace and adjacent to the park. Opposite the street, there stood a row of 'Petit Taxi' stands, each painted in red hues. The Riad appeared modest from the outside, with only a massive wooden door as its exterior.

Why choose a Riad?

Based within the old city walls of the Medina, it's like stepping into a Moroccan fairy tale. These traditional palaces boast lush gardens, intricate tile work, handcrafted furniture, ornate textiles, arched doorways, gorgeous fountains and cozy courtyards, making them more than just a place to crash after a day of exploring. While the streets outside are alive with all sorts of commotion, the heart of the medinas offers a serene escape, complete with the soothing sound of bubbling fountains. Trust me, staying in a Riad is the cherry on top of your Moroccan adventure!

Two nights of enchantment at Riad Andalib
Two nights of enchantment at Riad Andalib

The man who introduced himself as Omar swiftly came from the Riad and led us, along with our luggage, down the stairs into the remarkable palatial guesthouse. Inside the Riad, sizable stone pots displayed plants arranged in intersecting patterns, while a snug crystal blue swimming pool occupied the far corner, complemented by a nearby bar featuring a fireplace. In the main courtyard, grand wooden doors opened to smaller dining areas on each side, while the center showcased a breathtaking marble fountain, encircled by tables and chairs adorned with intricate Arabic motifs in red and yellow floral patterns. Whilst I was still admiring the works of the high ceiling and upper corridor connecting decorative suites, a very smiling and friendly owner who introduced himself as Reibal, a Moroccan native but a Canadian return, welcomed us graciously with his charming French accent and some information on the history of his Riad. At that very instant, Iman, a lovely young lady walked in with Moroccan mint tea in a silver pot and glasses and tasty almond cookies, almost hearing our hunger pangs banging loud against our stomachs.


I made a reservation for Riad Andalib through Booking.com. If you're interested in booking the same property, you can find the link here.



Whilst our rooms got ready, Reibal pulled out a map of the Medina and chalked out the directions and highlighted the main attractions. After he finished detailing all the intricacies, it was finally time for us to take a look at our luxurious rooms. My room was just as I envisioned: brown chalked walls, elegant bedding, a stylish bath space, blending modernity with traditional Medina charm, adorned with Moroccan lanterns and tapestries, offering luxurious comfort. Following his que, Omar led us on a tour of the Riad, starting with the rooftop right after showing us the rooms. The view from up there was truly breathtaking!


Labyrinth of Fes el Bli's Enchanting Streets
Labyrinth of Fes el Bli's Enchanting Streets

I beheld a labyrinth of sand-colored buildings with wisps of black smoke rising from some rooftops, evoking images of Islamic cities depicted in spy dramas where agents navigate through intricate alleys. I was already aware that Fes captivated me like no other place! The only downside was the lack of parking within the Medina, so Bunty had to drive to the nearest gate, Bab Jdid, to park his car in the large parking lot, which was a 15-minute walk from the Riad.

Please note: Fez El Bali (Old Fez), the largest car-free urban area globally, relies on mules and donkeys for transporting goods to homes or businesses. Also even if allowed it is practically impossible to drive your car in the Medina lanes.

Meanwhile, famished from our long uninterrupted journey from Chefchaouen to Fes, we just dumped our bags in the rooms and headed straight to the nearest restaurant that was suggested. Riebel proposed Cafe Clock, owned by a British proprietor, renowned for its strict adherence to hygiene and food safety standards, catering primarily to tourists. However, reaching it meant navigating to the blue gate and entering the Medina, a task we lacked the energy for due to our hunger. Consequently, we opted to dine at Restaurant Al Mandar adjacent to the Riad, which boasted rooftop seating offering stunning views of the entire Medina. Little did we realize that this restaurant would become our favorite spot for the next two days in Fes.

Indulging in culinary bliss at Restaurant Al Mandar, Fes. Lentils Rfissa, Aubergine Zaalouk, and Chicken Tagine – a symphony of Moroccan delights.
Restaurant Al Mandar, Fes. Lentils Rfissa, Aubergine Zaalouk, and Chicken Tagine – a symphony of Moroccan delights.

Prior to our main course featuring chicken tagine, Harira soup, omelet, and kebabs, the attentive servers graciously presented lentils Rfissa and aubergine Zaalouk as appetizers, accompanied by refreshing fresh orange juice. Satisfied with our meal, we decided to relax at the Riad before venturing into the maze of the Medina.


Discovering Fes el Bali Medina after dark

As the sun began to set, we ventured out on foot to explore the Medina bathed in the soft glow of yellow light. Our first stop was the parking area at Bab Jdid, the beautiful gateway to the Medina, to locate our car.

Bab Jdid, the beautiful gateway to the Medina at Fes el Bali
Bab Jdid, the beautiful gateway to the Medina at Fes el Bali

As I glanced at the cafe, it was still bustling with men sipping mint tea, leaving me to ponder whether they were the same individuals I had seen a couple of hours earlier or if they had been replaced by a more relaxed crowd. Continuing our stroll, we passed by a pharmacy designed with the universal symbol of medicine—a snake coiled around a staff. Inside, two women, clad in head scarves and white coats, were diligently attending to their tasks, seemingly unperturbed by our presence. Further down the road, we encountered a driving school with its exterior walls painted with symbols of steering wheels, traffic signs, safety gear, and an instructor figure. Finally reaching the parking lot, we swiftly hopped into our car. However, to our surprise, the parking attendant failed to recognize Bunty, who had already prepaid 60 MAD for two days in advance. With no receipt and a language barrier complicating matters, explaining the payment situation to him turned out to be quite the comedic challenge.


Although tourists can't go inside, I was keen to catch a glimpse of the lavish gates of the Royal Palace, home to King Mohammed VI of Morocco, and explore the nearby Jewish quarters. It's quite the contrast – a grand palace surrounded by cramped, rundown houses and bustling market stalls. The huge gilt brass palace doors (Ormulu) are a sight to behold, adorned with intricate brass handles and geometric patterns. And let's not forget the stunning blue mosaic tiles (Zellige) and carved Cedarwood.

The famed golden Fes Palais Royal Dar El Makhzen
The famed golden Fes Palais Royal Dar El Makhzen

In the hurriedness to leave and the police having no chill with us parking our car on the side, we had to skip the Jewish quarters. However, I wasn't too damned because with sunset approaching, heading up to Borj Sud for a breathtaking view of the old city was definitely on my agenda. We headed towards Bab Ziat which was our entry point into the Medina because we had chosen to dine at Riad Dar Tresor later that night. The lanes were nearly abandoned, only for a few men standing in the dark alleys calling out ‘India? Namaste’.


A nugget of wisdom: When someone starts chatting you up, consider going silent and don’t respond. Engage, and you might unwittingly recruit a shadow guide, leading you deeper into the labyrinth of winding streets. Be sure they will get you lost in that maze!

As we walked through the dimly lit streets of the Medina, Amma and Appa seemed a bit hesitant to continue. Surprisingly, I found it all quite amusing. In fact, I loved the atmosphere created by the almost empty narrow streets illuminated by yellow lights. Suddenly, we spotted a door partially open, and what we thought was just another house turned out to be a luxurious Riad - Riad Salam, a Moorish temple, a timeless inspiration.



Stepping inside, we were astonished by its grandeur and elegance. The staff graciously offered to give us a tour, and we eagerly accepted. With 48 rooms and lavish hallways, we were left speechless. After our tour, we headed back the same way, realizing we had already spent all our allotted time for exploring the Medina. On our way to the restaurant Riad Dar Fes Tresor, we stumbled upon a display of tagines guarded by a woman listening to her radio. Impressed by her selection, we inquired if she was willing to sell. She enthusiastically offered us a brown tagine for my mother-in-law and a green one for me, all for just 20 MAD. I was taken aback by the price, especially after haggling for a similar one in Chefchaouen for nearly 150 MAD earlier that morning. Overwhelmed with gratitude, she hugged and kissed us, making us feel incredibly happy about the interaction.


A charming local in Fes
A charming local in Fes

As the night enveloped us, we enjoyed a satisfying dinner at the rooftop of the much acclaimed Riad Dar Fes Tresor. With some Moroccan tea to end with and a walk back to the parking, our day one's adventures had come to a halt. Yet, as we treaded through the dimly lit lanes, a sense of anticipation tingled in the air. Tomorrow promised to thrust us into the chaotic labyrinth of over 9000 lanes in the Medina. The anticipation was palpable; we could hardly contain our excitement for what awaited us next.

Word of Caution: Those with mobility challenges, restricted walking capabilities, or respiratory issues are urged to avoid joining the walking tour of Fes Medina. The experience can be overwhelming and incredibly taxing.

Diving deeper into Fes' captivating 9300 labyrinthine Medina!

Before immersing myself in Fes's Medina, I want to shine a spotlight on the fantastic four-hour walking tour led by Ahmed. I've outlined the highlights below, and I must say, booking through GetYourGuide was an absolute win! Check out this link to make your walking tour booking too.


As we greeted the new day, who could have guessed the thrilling adventure it held in store for us? Following a relaxed morning at the Riad, Bunty and I eagerly set out to explore the Medina from Bab Rcif's entrance, reveling in the freedom to wander at our own pace. Venturing through the maze of streets, we marveled at the quaint houses tucked away within. Though the morning was tranquil, with only the occasional passerby, the excitement of further exploration beckoned.



Yet, with the risk of losing our way looming, we reluctantly retreated to the Riad, eagerly anticipating the arrival of our guide. When Ahmed appeared promptly at noon, his warm demeanor instantly put us at ease. Thrilled to meet my children, he shared stories of his own grandchildren, creating an instant connection. As we commenced on our four-hour tour through the labyrinth of the Medina, starting from the Andalusian quarter and progressing to the Quaraouiyine side, Ahmed's expertise became evident. The medina is divided into two parts: the Andalusian section, named after the Moors expelled from Spain, and the Quaraouiyine section, named after those expelled from Kairouan in Tunisia. While the Andalusian area is quieter and is known for its architectural and cultural influence from Al-Andalus (Islamic Iberia), it features a variety of shop types, while the Quaraouiyine area historically catered to traders and commerce and has more clearly defined shops based on their trade. Navigating through narrow lanes and bustling markets of the Derb Sidi Khlil neighborhood, each turn revealed hidden gems, castaway houses, dark alleys. We emerged out of this little maze onto the Main Street, igniting an adrenaline rush to actually start our tour now.



We crossed the road to start at Bab Rcif. We first walked past a colorful fruit and vegetable market. Then, we witnessed a nose-tickling spectacle of dangling meats, where even camel heads jostled for attention. Next to it, a lady crafted fresh Moroccan pancakes, and a vendor sold spiced onions and olives.



There were vendors selling deep fried chebakias coated in honey and sesame and next to it, a fish vendor selling the fresh catch of the day. With an amalgamation of various food aromas lingering in the air, I honestly couldn't wait to leave this bustling souk. The next one however was a warm delight.


The Sabaghine Souk for the wool and fabric dyers. The colorful wool hanging on the walls and the spools of thread create a beautiful scene in the Medina. Artisans dye the wool using natural colors like saffron and plants, giving off distinct smells. They clean, wash, comb, spin, and dye the wool by hand, using plants like saffron flowers for yellow, reseda for green, and madder for red.



Awed by this spectacle, Ahmed took us through further twists and turns of the colorful maze of pottery, ceramics and knife carving stalls to land at the very famed Place Seffarine. The rhythmic hammering of metalworkers echoed through the air, offering a glimpse into centuries-old craftsmanship. Inspired by the sights and sounds of the Medina, I couldn't resist bargaining for a set of metal armbands as a memento of our unforgettable journey.



Whilst we spent a considerable amount of time Seffarine square admiring the metal works of the artists, Ahmed spoke to a 100 people. When I inquired about Ahmed's popularity, he quipped, "You know Coca Cola? Well, I'm the Coca Cola of Fes el Bali." With a big laugh, he journeyed us from here back in time at the Merinid medrasa.


Seffarine Medersa Fes
Seffarine Medersa Fes

The Seffarine Medersa was constructed in 1280 on Saffarine square in a traditional style by the Merinid sultan Abou Youssef. We couldn’t enter the Medersa but we could see the prayer room covered by a beautiful wooden dome from one of the doors left open.


Nearby was the the Fondouk Tsetaoui, known as ‘Tetouanis’, dating back to the 14th century. It served as accommodation for Tetouani students attending Al Qaraouiyine University, now used as a shopping cooperative selling authentic Moroccan handcrafted items.


Fondouk Tsetaoui
Fondouk Tsetaoui

Around 2 pm, we were feeling really hungry, especially with the kids getting restless. So, we quickly went to a bakery nearby for some food. They had lots of yummy pastries and refreshing smoothies on their shelves. While I was keeping an eye on the kids, a group of mules suddenly passed by, jolting me unexpectedly. Ahmed told me when the passersby with mules or large carts shouted “Taharrak”, means you move. The market was bustling with people, making us feel like we had to keep moving despite all the noise.


Mules and donkeys used as means of transportation in the Fes’s medina
Mules and donkeys used as means of transportation in the Fes’s medina

Right next to the bakeries, the beautiful Mosque Al Qaraouiyine stood tall, a well-known symbol of Fez with its white tower standing out against the sky. It was built back in the 9th century by Fatima Al-Fihria, and its fascinating history and stunning architecture fascinated us. The Al-Qaraouiyine mosque ranks among Africa's largest mosques and holds the distinction of being the oldest university globally.Ahmed knew the people from the cooperatives around, of course, he was doing this job for over 30 years now. So he spoke to one of them and had us climb up a nearby cooperative selling rugs to get an amazing view of the mosque's green rooftop and detailed interior.



Upon descending we couldn’t make a hurried exit because we now owed our time to the rug maker. Honestly we weren’t feeling pressurized at all. We were actually amazed by the beautiful silk rugs hand-woven from cactus plants, sheep wool, and cotton.

Useful tip: If you want rooftop views of a Medersa, mosque, or the tannery, consider joining a free or low-cost tour offered by certain shops, as they have control over access to these areas, making it the only viable option.


 Moroccan handmade rug of cactus silk
Moroccan handmade rug of cactus silk

Even though we didn't buy anything, we exited the store politely and then, just like that again, we found ourselves standing outside the Al-Attarine Medersa. I've got to admit, I was curious about what was inside. I'd never been inside a Medersa before, so it was really interesting for me. Plus, the Medersa itself was pretty impressive! It is known to be the oldest university in the world! We had to pay 20 MAD each to go inside. The Attarine Madrasa, founded in 1325, named after its district, continued to operate until the early 20th century. At that time, the 30 rooms, which housed 60 students, were permanently vacated. As soon as I entered, I gasped in wonderment! The central courtyard featured customary patterns created by artisans from the Marinid Sultanate, originating from the Berber culture. The walls had really detailed designs, and the architecture had intricate detailing with beautiful mosaics and Arabic scriptures and verses from the Quran. Upstairs, the rooms were decorated nicely, and you could see the streets, as well as the Kairouan University and mosque nearby, which was really cool.



We traversed further into more narrow alleys and entered various new lanes. We entered the lively Souk Serrajine and enjoyed looking at all the different fabrics and leather slippers for sale. There were so many unique pairs, each one representing Moroccan craftsmanship and making for a special souvenir from our unforgettable trip. But we didn’t buy any because we find these same colorful joothis in India in wholesome.


You'll also find a private full-day cultural tour on GetYourGuide, featuring unique attractions such as the Al-Attarine Medersa, Chouara Tannery, Seffarine Medersa, and Mosque Al Qaraouiyine. To book this tour, simply click on the following link.



The big highlight and the main reason we came to Fes was for the Chouara Tannery.

So that was our next stop. As the largest tannery outside of India, it's a major operation. Chouara tannery is the largest of 3 tanneries built in Fez in 11th century. The Chouara Tannery, also known as the Quarter of the Tanners, is really cool. It's interesting to see how goat and camel leather is lighter and softer than cowhide. We were told to go into one of the leather shops, which didn't cost anything. From the third floor of the leather shop, you could see the tanneries really well. They still use the old way of making leather there, which is a UNESCO site. But oh boy, the smell was awful! They gave us some mint leaves to sniff to help with the stink.


UNESCO Chouara Tannery in Fes Medina
UNESCO Chouara Tannery in Fes Medina

Here's how they make leather there: They start by soaking the hide with skin and hair in white water made with limestone (it helps remove the hair) for 15 days. Then, they move it to pigeon droppings to soften it for 7 days before washing it. Twice a day, they take out the skin, wash it in clean water, and then dye it with natural colors like red from poppy flowers, blue from Indigo, yellow from saffron, green from mint (henna), brown from cedarwood, black from mascara stone, pink from rose flowers, white from jasmine, and purple from a mix of red and blue vegetable dye colors. They let the skin soak in color for 24 days, and on the 25th day, they let it dry. The leather they get is still hard, so they have to stretch it in the tannery's 45 rooms using a knife that looks like a banana to make it soft.

Here's a tip: If you check TripAdvisor reviews, you might feel overwhelmed. Lots of people talk about pushy sales tactics and feeling like they've overpaid for authentic items. But if you go with our guide Ahmed, he'll take you to a shop that focuses on sharing lots of information about the tannery and the view from the rooftop. The salespeople there don't pressure you at all. Instead, you can take your time exploring their collection of jackets, bags, belts, and other items. In a world where fast fashion is common, it's normal to feel like you're paying too much for genuine things. Just remember to bargain well to avoid feeling cheated. I rest my case here.


Vibrant chaos in Fes’ leather shops
Vibrant chaos in Fes’ leather shops

The salesman Abdul who showed us around explained how they treat leather in the tanneries, and then we went downstairs to see the demonstration on the difference between real and fake leather. With his story of working with Indian and Pakistani cooks in dubai and loving Indians, I was convinced and ended up buying a lovely bag made from half hide and half Berbere wool. Our tour was almost over, but we still had a lot more to see. Luckily, Ahmed was kind enough to show us around a bit longer.

Savvy strategy: Treat bargaining like a full-contact sport. Get in there, play hard, and be ready to strut away if the price isn't playing ball. That’s the only way my friend!

Next, we went to the Souk Tillisse, where they sell Berbere rugs and carpets. It's a great place to get handmade Moroccan rugs at a fair price. The souk is bustling with locals, and you really get a feel for the Moroccan vibe. The rugs come in all sorts of colors, fabrics, and sizes. It's like a treasure trove for rugs!


Souk Tillisse, the Berbere rugs and carpets haven in Fes medina
Souk Tillisse, the Berbere rugs and carpets haven in Fes medina

Pro tip: When they quote you 1000 MAD for a rug, start the negotiation at less than half, approximately 250 MAD and work your way slightly up. That way, you'll feel like a shrewd dealmaker instead of a bamboozled buyer.

We were starving by this point, especially with all the delicious smells coming from the Street food souk nearby. In the bustling souk, the air was a fragrant blend of grilled meats and sizzling kebabs. Cozy nooks and crannies were converted into make shift restaurants offering a wide variety of Moroccan street food favorites: from savory dried meats to crispy milawi, chebakias, amlou on freshly baked bread from the 400 year old community oven, hearty harsha, tantalizing tagines, briwats, zesty sardines, spiced-up potato cakes, soul-warming Harira and Bessara soups, briny olives, and a myriad of other delectable treats.


Culinary Delights await at the bustling Street Food Souk
Culinary Delights await at the bustling Street Food Souk

But we still hadn't seen the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II. So we grabbed some fresh fruits instead to keep us going a bit longer. Unfortunately, we couldn't go inside the mausoleum because it's only for Muslims, but we could see the courtyard from the main gate. It was really beautifully decorated with Arabic designs. Apparently the entrance of the Mausoleum had dead bodies of the ancestors and family of the Moulay buried under ground and people came here to pay their respects to the Moulay. It was strange that non Muslims wouldn’t be allowed to enter, while the Mausoleums in Rabat allowed people of other religions to pay their respects.


An enduring legacy from the 9th century: The majestic Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II, Fes.
An enduring legacy from the 9th century: The majestic Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II, Fes.

Valuable tip: Opt to keep change in MAD or Euros as many establishments, shops and restaurants may not accept card payments.

After that, we visited the Souk Al-Attarine, which was filled with spices and perfumes, and then the Henna souk. This Souk is located just off Souk el Attarine. This square gives you respite from the bustling chaos of the Medina. When you step into the air of the Henna Souq, it's like a blend of henna, natural medicines, and makeup filling your senses. Nowadays, you'll find those same scents mingling with ceramics, antiques, and trinkets for tourists. As you wander, the shaded courtyard, with its towering tree, welcomes you to the entrance of the Maristane Sidi Frej, a historic hospital.



Now to another marvel and end of our day’s play - Nejjarine Souk, which is all about woodworks. It was fascinating to see the craftsmen at work and to admire the intricately tiled oldest water fountain in Fez. The small Nejjarine Square is connected to the Nejjarine Museum and Fondouk. As we left the Medina, we couldn't help but think about how much more there was to explore and how lucky we were to have Ahmed as our guide. Without him, navigating through the maze would have been impossible, and we would have been lost!



A savvy tip: It’s absolutely not scary to explore the Medina by yourselves. But just be cautious not to get tricked by locals who pose as helpful samaritans to help you find your way only to make some extra money of you.

I was a bit gutted that we couldn’t make it to the Rainbow street. With a mind overflowing with reminders about Rainbow Street, we managed to spectacularly miss it amidst the hunger-induced chaos of the Medina. Not a peep about it from Ahmed either! It's inconceivable he'd overlook such a vibrant street. So, I've decided the paint must've faded, and the street simply doesn't exist! Isn't it better that way, after all?


Now another place which we didn’t visit was the blue gate Bab Bou Jeloud which is supposedly the most visited gate of the Medina. So later that evening, we decided to venture out on our own to visit the famous blue gate of the Medina, one because it wasn’t buried within the labyrinth like the Rainbow 🌈 street and secondly it was a highly touristic option so it felt safe to explore it on our own. Reibal, the owner of the riad, had provided us with a map showing the direct routes from Bab Bou Jeloud, the main entrance to the Fes Medina. This gate marks the beginning of two main lanes in the Medina: Talâa Kebira and Talâa Seghira, where we found numerous cafes, food stalls, and craft shops.


Three gens at Bab Bou Jeloud, the main entrance to the Fes Medina
Three gens at Bab Bou Jeloud, the main entrance to the Fes Medina

The stalls and their merchandise were noticeably different from those we encountered earlier in the day during our tour. The items appeared to be of lower quality, possibly China-made, yet the experience was enjoyable and felt like a typical tourist attraction. Initially, we thought navigating would be straightforward since it was a single lane leading back to the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II. However, as the shops began to close, every alley started to blend together, making it unexpectedly difficult to find our way back. Despite having a physical map and retracing our steps from earlier, the once bustling lanes now proved disorienting and challenging to navigate at night. We soon became lost, turning our return journey into a nightmarish ordeal.



Helpful advice: GPS hardly works inside the Medina. So unless you are mighty sure of your route, please don’t try your luck. Also don’t pull out your physical map every now and then, it might attract undue attention.


Navigating our escape route - Yalla run run!

It is all very mesmerizing and interesting and it’s great to explore such unique places but one cannot ignore the unsettling and uncomfortable feeling too that comes with experiencing the kind of life here. In the last 5 mins of our walk inside the Medina last night, we almost lost our way and although we were together, Amma, Bunty and I panicked a bit. The alley ways all looked the same and the locals all looked like they were out to trick us, GPS didn’t  work, and although we know it’s touristic and nothing will happen, some sort of weird feeling finding our way through those local areas with men calling out “Indian?, shah rukh khan, namaste, come I’ll take you the right way”. However, we finally found our way out. And laughed it off. I’m sure a lot of foreigners feel the same in India’s chaotic mess too. We ended up going for dinner in New Fes, the developed part of the city, ditching the old town maze and it felt like a breath of fresh air.


Lost in the charm of Derb Jamaa, Fes.
Lost in the charm of Derb Jamaa, Fes.

Pardon my cautious nature: We're accustomed to city life and find it challenging to muster the courage to fully immerse ourselves in the beauty of ancient cities like locals. Being brutally honest you’ll!


That was the first time we nearly lost ourselves in its maze of streets. As we finally emerged unscathed and spotted the tourist police, we exhaled a collective sigh of relief big enough to inflate a hot air balloon.


Closing thoughts

Thrilled I detoured to Fes on my way to Marrakech! Delighted to dive into an authentic local cultural escapade, breaking away from typical city tourism. Sure, it's a 7-hour drive from Marrakech, but it's absolutely worth every mile. After all, it's not just any UNESCO World Heritage site – Fes is uniquely captivating and definitely deserves a spot on your travel bucket list. Even the Prince of Arabia wouldn't dare miss out on labyrinthine medina of Fes el Bali!


How to reach Fez?

There are international flights from EU flying in directly to Fez-Saïss Airport. For travellers from other parts of the world, you may have connecting flights from major airports like Dubai, Istanbul or other cities. Fez is easily accessible by road, connecting to major Moroccan cities such as Casablanca, Rabat, Marrakech, and Tangier via national highways A1 or A2. The country boasts a robust train network (ONCF) with a high-speed service (Al Boraq) linking Tangier to Casablanca. Long-distance bus services, notably Supratours and CTM, provide additional travel options.


Where to park in Fez?

Navigating parking in the bustling city of Fes, particularly in the old medina, can pose challenges.

  • Consider parking on the city outskirts and opting for a taxi into the center.

  • Alternatively, if your accommodation in Fes provides parking, it's advisable to park there and take a taxi to the city center. Your hotel can guide you to the safest options.

  • There's an excellent parking spot available at Bab Jdid gate. The nightly rate is 30 MAD, and unlike other parking facilities, they don't overcharge tourists. It's highly secure, and the staff is friendly.


If you found my blog post enjoyable, consider giving it a thumbs-up and subscribing for future updates. Don't hesitate to share it with your friends and family as well. If you have any questions or desire further insights into Fes or any other travel-related topics, please don't hesitate to reach out. Wishing you safe and enchanting adventures, much like the charm of Fes el Bali!

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Guest
Feb 28
Rated 5 out of 5 stars.

I simply love it how you travel everywhere with kids.. It shows that every place has something in it for everyone.. Keep up the great work😊

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srinig27
Feb 24

Super informative and just capitvating to make a trip to morroco. Truely a travel passionate.

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Exploring the world one sip at a time. ☕✈️ Follow Amy Sidd's adventures at The Morning Brew for a daily dose of travel inspiration.

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Looking for unique travel experiences? Look no further than The Morning Brew. Hi, I am Amy, exploring the world one sip at a time. ☕✈️ My blog is dedicated to providing families with the most exciting, fun, and authentic travel experiences. The Morning Brew is my travel journey of travel escapades to gorgeous places, meeting like-minded people, exploring different culinary treats and the experience of travelling with kids. I invite you to explore my content and reach out and engage—I’m happy to hear from you, as well. Subscribe to our blog for more updates and travel inspiration. Follow Amy Sidd's adventures at The Morning Brew for a daily dose of travel inspiration.

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