My Tryst with Temples in India

Before I commence, I want to clarify that I harbor no intention to offend anyone; what I'm sharing are exclusively my personal thoughts and experiences. I am well aware of the sensitivity surrounding religious topics, so I want to be transparent from the outset. Your understanding is greatly appreciated.

I am uncertain that the narrative below relates to a particular transformative experience that I've gone through or if it is exclusively this phase of life that I'm experiencing. However, it definitely is a consequence of a heightened connection and active involvement with the divine stories, enduring traditions, intricate architecture and historical aspect associated with the religious structures that I've recently encountered on my recent visits to India.

Intricate Carvings on the gopuram of the Temple

As a daughter…

Growing up, I visited a lot of temples with my parents, but as a child, when mum said temple, I said bore. I developed a fondness for visiting temples solely in my hometown Coorg, when I visited my grandparents during my summer vacations. Coorg is a coffee heaven located in the southern part of India, specifically in the state of Karnataka. The temples here are immaculate, sparsely populated, and the weather is consistently delightful. The saying ‘Cleanliness is next to Godliness’ was etched in my brain since my childhood. And thus, that has always been a major criteria for me when deciding to visit a place of worship. During those days, I had no control over decision-making nor was I particular about things. So I tagged along happily with my parents. Thankfully, the places they brought me to were consistently peaceful, calm, and immaculate. I felt most at peace when I visited the Igguthappa and Tala Kaveri temples in Coorg. It could’ve also been because these temple visits were mostly with my grandparents, aunts, uncles and my cousins. I was always overjoyed at the prospect of visiting a temple with them. My other favourite was the Siddhivinayaka temple in Mumbai. Strikingly different from the temples in Coorg, this Ganesha temple in Prabhadevi in Mumbai was always bustling with pilgrims and tourists, and the atmosphere was filled with heightened reverence. Engaging in a chaotic scramble within the inner sanctum that housed the statue of the orange coloured Ganesha was a given, yet it felt oddly gratifying and fulfilling to the soul to worship Lord Ganapathi in that manner. Ironical as it may seem, even in this hubbub I discovered a sense of tranquil and peace. Perhaps it was my perspective as a woman raised in Mumbai. Only a true Mumbaikar comprehends the relentless hustle culture of the city, where getting things done amidst commotion is a way of life.

Another place where I visited temples was Chennai, the capital city of the state of Tamil Nadu in the South of India. It is famed for its ancient temples, thus garnering the name The Land of Temples. I have visited Chennai on numerous occasions. One, because my father’s ship docked or anchored in Madras port often (former name of Chennai), when I sailed with him as a child. During his off-shift hours, papa was supposed to catch on some sleep before his next shift started. However, the travel junkie that he was, he always chose the second more alluring option of touring the place the ship docked in. In Madras, our off-shift day routine was planned. We engaged in various activities such as offering prayers at a temple, enjoying parks and beaches, indulging in delicious Chettinad cuisine, watching a captivating Tamil movie, and returning to the ship a few hours before papa’s shift began. Those days were pretty and those memories are etched for life.

As a daughter-in-law…

My second phase of Tamil Nadu acquaintance was after I got married. I made a special trip to Chennai as part of a temple tour with my in-laws. My father-in-law wished we make one as a customary visit to his family temple in Lalgudi (A small town located in the Trichy district of Tamil Nadu) and include the other ancient heritage temples of Trichy too. I was very excited at the prospect of visiting the family temple at Lalgudi. This temple has endured through the ages and has preserved the family lineage. Honestly, I did not know what to expect from the other temples in Trichy. I only knew they were really ancient temples built by dynasties that ruled the region for hundreds of years. The exceptional architecture and intricate carvings on the temple facade are enough to bring out a sense of pride for the great culture and tradition imbibed in our countrymen. Unfortunately in all this magnificence, I could not bring myself to focus on the beauty and instead I indulged in undivided blame at the intense torching weather of the day. At a peak of 38 degrees Celsius, we were to engage in prayers in these gorgeous temples draped in silk sarees, the outfits totally non-conducive to the weather and to my mental well-being at that point in time. I vividly remember whining and crying about the heat, especially when I had to walk barefoot into the blazing hot stone temples. Thus, my head alone wasn’t getting fried, but my feet were also on fire. And in my Kanjeevaram silk saree, my body was blowing up in flames. In that moment, all I wanted to do was to rip that saree off and jump into a pool of chilled water. With thousands of devotees thronging the temple, waiting in long queues with children in arms and the old slowly etching forward to worship the gods and goddesses in that unbearable heat, I really couldn’t relate to their deep religious faith. I experienced guilt over displaying privilege, and shame for not sharing the same religious faith, even though I couldn't control my feelings.

Colourful Carvings of Dravidian Architecture on Temple Gopuram

I hope it is well established by now that in my adolescent years, I wasn’t very religious. I took pleasure in reading Amar Chitra Katha (picture story book narrating stories about India's mythological gods and historical leaders), and I had a ear for most mythological narratives, but when it came to temple visits, I only enjoyed the experience of a peaceful and pleasant temple visit combined with the company of loved ones in a blissful weather. I visited temples with my parents, because I saw the sense of calm it gave them when they prayed and that made me feel soulful. Period. My faith has always been in a higher power living in our body and minds. Going back to my Palani story, at that time, I tried my level best to keep my intolerance to that scorching heat at bay. My parents-in-law had a certain purpose in mind and to fulfil that purpose here I was, succumbing to their wishes.

What caught my attention was the fact that the majority of the crowd consisted of impoverished individuals, and I couldn't help but wonder how they managed to survive in such extreme temperatures on a daily basis, let alone choose this time of the day to offer prayers. Maybe their bodies acclimatised to this extreme weather condition and now they were oblivious to the heat. It is the aura and the charm of these historic temples that draw a visitor’s attention away from the very inconsequential subject of intolerant weather. The scent of incense sticks and fragrance of ‘mallikai’ (jasmine flower) filled the temple air. Prayers were chanted by priests and devotees shut their palms tight clamping each other, chanting the ‘mantras’ (verse) in tandem with the priest. Before the abhishekam (refers to the Hindu ritual of pouring water or other sacred substances on a statue of a deity while also chanting mantras) was performed, VIP entrances were clogged with swift ushering of special pass holder devotees. The inner doors to the sanctorum where the idol was placed was closed and the priests made an announcement to the crowd that the idol was being adorned with jewels and saree. After 15 minutes of waiting in silence, when the idol was presented to the crowds, an awe-inspired gasp filled the room and then the abhishekam was performed. It was a moment of mighty reverence to the gods in their celestial forms looking down upon us and showering their blessings. I gasped too, but I still had my head at ripping off that saree.

As a mother…

Honestly, I started frequenting temples and my tryst in temple worship only began after Kiu and Arya were born. I experience a sense of relief and tranquility when I offer prayers to the higher power, seeking safety and good health for them. Now I understand the reasons behind my parents' actions as well. The only difference is when I impose temple visits on my kids, I never get a ‘bore’ reaction from them. I surprisingly get a very inquisitive reaction from them. This time on our tour in Chennai, when I said temple, my kids asked which one. With their curiosity intrigued in the gods and goddesses of Indian mythology, I decided to include a temple tour, lest they change their minds soon. Their ‘Thatha’ (grandfather), the very same father-in-law who expressed a desire for a temple tour after my marriage recounted numerous mythological tales to them while he was in the Netherlands. This ignited their fascination with celestial beings. Honestly I’m glad, it rekindles a sense of wonder for Indian heritage and culture in them, whilst we stay far away from our homeland. I don't object to their religious beliefs; my concern lies in them adopting an inflexible and unquestioning stance due to religion. I don't want them getting hardlined by religious beliefs.

It wasn't until three decades had passed that I truly grasped the beauty encapsulated by Indian temples. Offering prayers at a place of worship comes with a different feeling of belonging with higher power. I did not understand it then. Moreover, the fascination that comes with mythology, history, architecture and a glimpse of the beautifully adorned idols of the lords is such an enthralling and fulfilling experience. The same stories that I read as a child, when interpreted by a guide in the carvings and paintings on temple walls, it brought back fond memories of my childhood. It resonates more with me now as a travel enthusiast. I hope my kids too can recognise the historical significance intertwined with the craftsmanship of each Indian temple. I desire for them to venture into diverse sacred places, spanning from the Golden Temple in Amritsar to the Kapaleshwara Temple in Chennai, and from the Konark Temple in Odisha to Akshardham in Gujarat.

As a grandmother…

As I continue my tryst with temples, I look forward to exploring more sacred sites and immersing myself in the rich spiritual heritage of India. Only time will tell.