Fall Fun for the Whole Family: Exploring Plovdiv's Autumn Colors
Updated: May 12
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It’s time for a stunning show of colours !
As the seasons change, nature transforms into a breathtaking display of colors. In one corner, the vibrant greens of the trees give way to a mesmerizing palette of oranges and yellows. Forests become adorned with leaves in shades of yellow and brown, creating a picturesque scene. In another corner, the pathways and walkways are carpeted with a beautiful array of burgundy leaves, inviting us to immerse ourselves in the wonders of yet another season - ‘Autumn’.
And I am grateful that I got to experience the magic of nature's this seasonal transformation for the first time in Bulgaria’s Plovdiv. This particular moment held a special significance as it marked my son's 3rd birthday and I found myself in the midst of my pregnancy, eagerly awaiting the arrival of my daughter.
We created this itinerary when travelling from Dubai and wanted to explore the Bulgarian culture in deep but had we planned visiting in Spring, typically in May, we could have earned a visit to the traditional Rose festival in Kazanlak, that’s an annual occurrence and one of the most revered festivals for the Bulgarians. 6 days in Autumn is a great experience and is good enough time to explore the Bulgarian capital Sofia and the charming Plovdiv, but if you’d have more time you could also explore Troyan and its annual plum festival that takes place in the last week of September. Summer treats you with gorgeous sunshine and you could explore Varna for its gorgeous beaches, while in Winter you could head to Bansko for its sking!
But now heading back to our main topic for the day.
Agenda: Exploring Plovdiv How to reach Plovdiv? About Plovdiv |
How to reach Plovdiv?
We opted for a flight from Sofia to Plovdiv, and the domestic connections proved to be efficient, allowing us to reach our destination swiftly.Plovdiv Airport mainly handles domestic flights within Bulgaria. However, they have a direct flights only to London, thanks to RyanAir and Wizz Air UK. There are also bus and train services from Sofia to Plovdiv. To take the bus, head to the Sofia's Central Bus Station (Avtogara Sever). The duration of the journey is typically 2 to 2.5 hours. For tourists and visitors who enjoy driving, you may also rent a car or drive in your own car from Plovdiv. The distance is 150 kms and the duration spans around 1.5 hours to 2 hours.
What to Wear and Weather suitability.
Autumn in Plovdiv means cooler climate, a comfortable 17-20 degrees during the day and approximately 7-9 degrees at night. So, my advice would be to dress in layers to cope with the temperature changes. We wore jumpers and carried a cardigan. For the evenings, we had packed sweaters. For Kiu, we dressed him in layers and occasionally he even wore a thermal wear under his sweater when it got really cold. We were blessed with good dry weather throughout our stay, however autumn can experience light showers, so my advice would be to pack a lightweight rain jacket.
About Plovdiv
Plovdiv, situated in southern Bulgaria, is akin to a composed and peaceful individual who prefers to mind her own affairs. Nestled between the Rhodope Mountains and the Thracian Plain, it is the second-largest city in Bulgaria and offers a more tranquil atmosphere compared to bustling Sofia. Our hotel had an excellent location. If you turned left, you would find yourself on the path to the city center or Kampana district, across the Boulevard Tsar Boris III Obedinitel. If you turned right, you would head towards the cobbled-stoned Old Town. We decided to start by exploring the city center.
Day 1 - City Center Plovdiv
Down across the Boulevard Tsar Boris III Obedinitel, you will reach the main shopping street aka 'Galvnata' that strecthes all the way from Ramada by Wyndham Plovdiv Trimontium to Ulitsa Raiko Daskalov. It is a street located in the Kapana District, also known as 'The Trap' or 'The Creative District.' Unlike some other European countries, Plovdiv's city center, often referred to as the 'Central District,' wasn't crowded with tourists, blame it on autumn, but it was just perfect for us! In the peak season, the main pedestrian street called Kapana District or ‘Plovdiv's Broadway’ in Plovdiv is a lively and vibrant area.
We noticed that the buildings and structures in the city center featured a mix of architectural styles, ranging from Ottoman-era buildings to contemporary structures. For people who love the modern shopping malls and galleries, Plovdiv central district is the right place to go. The center highlights cultural institutions like the City Art Gallery and archeological sites like the Ancient Roman Theatre.
1.1 Kapana District
Kapana is a trendy and artistic neighbourhood in the city centre. In autumn, it takes on a mind-blowing charm with the added beauty of falling orange and yellow leaves from trees. If you're looking for souvenir or boutique shops, art galleries, hip bars, trendy cafes, and restaurants that offer both local Bulgarian cuisine and international options, this is the place to be.
The most popular street is the Raiko Daskalov Street, known as the 'Trap' in Bulgarian. It can be found within Plovdiv's Kapana District. Apart from this main bustling street, there are several by-lanes which can be explored too.
1.2 Plovdiv Regional Historical Museum
We started from the Plovdiv Regional Historical Museum which is a 2 minute walk from Ulitsa Raiko Daskalov. One amusing challenge I faced in Bulgaria was trying to pronounce the Proper nouns correctly. Take for instance the stunning 'Kuyumdzhiev' House, a remarkable historical building that houses the Regional Historical Museum. This architectural gem, dating back to the 19th century, showcases a fascinating fusion of Bulgarian Revival and Ottoman styles. Established in 1951, it covers the history of Plovdiv from the 15th century until today. It has three departments, each occupying a separate historic building.
If you have the opportunity, a trip to the Plovdiv Regional Historical Museum is definitely worth it.
Now, let me tell you about the star of the show - the 'Panagyurishte' Treasure (oh boy, another tongue twister!). This Thracian gold treasure from the 4th century BC is pure gold, and I mean literally. It's one of the most important archaeological finds in Bulgaria, and boy, does it shine!
1.3 Ancient Stadium of Philippopolis
It's a cool place where they used to have big sports competitions and races with chariots. It could fit up to 30,000 people! They even had games like the ones in Greece. When the Roman emperor Caracalla visited in 214, they called the games Alexandrian, and when emperor Elagabalus visited in 218, they called them Kedrisian.
We thoroughly explored the entire stadium, from the entrance gates made of stone pillars adorned with marble pilasters and reliefs, to the seating areas that are arranged in 14 rows and have stepped aisles leading down to the track. The seats even had Greek inscriptions on them. It's a fascinating glimpse into the thrilling world of sports in ancient Rome.
Important information: If you're a student or retired, you can visit for free on the first Thursday of every month.
Opening times:
November - March; Mon - Sun - 9.00 AM-5:30 PM
April - October; Mon - Sun 09.30-6:00 PM
If you're visiting the stadium, you should also check out the Ancient Theater of Philippopolis nearby.
1.4 Ancient Theater of Philippopolis
There is a well-preserved Roman amphitheater in Plovdiv. Currently used for various cultural events and performances, the Amphitheatre dates back to the 2nd century. One beneficial thing about the theatre for me was that it was an open-air theater, so I wasn’t claustrophobic at all.
Moreover, I was particular to wear loose-fitting clothing and comfortable shoes because I had read that the terrain of the archaeological site was uneven. So whatever made it easier for me to navigate through this difficult terrain. Moreover, the theater had several tiers of seating, so I avoided climbing those steep stairs. I stuck to the lower levels of the theatre and enjoyed the view.
Note: Before visiting any archaeological site or engaging in physical activities during pregnancy, it is always advisable to consult with your healthcare provider. They can provide personalized advice based on your specific needs and medical history.
1.5 Roman Forum of Philippopolis
The Roman Forum, located literally a stone's throw away from “Tsar Simeon Garden” Park, in the heart of the ancient city of Philippopolis (now Plovdiv), was the bustling epicenter for civic, commercial, and social interactions. During the reign of the emperor Vespasian, in the 1st century AD, the vibrant square featured open areas, colonnades, and significant civic structures, solidifying its role as both the administrative and social nucleus of the city. Around the 5th century AD, due to attacks by Barbarian groups, the people of Philippopolis had to leave their homes in the lower part of the city and move up to the acropolis for safety. Today, visitors can explore its archaeological remnants, columns, and historic structures that once graced this pivotal gathering spot.
Tip: The “Tsar Simeon Garden” Park is a beautiful place to witness the gorgeous autumn hues. You can stroll along the beautiful tree-lined paths and relax by the fountains.
Adjacent to the Roman Forum, we came across a designated play area for children. Its a small play ground with swings and a slide and there were many kids playing there. However, one unpleasant sight caught our attention - many parents smoking in close proximity to kids playing on swings and slides. It was disappointing to see this as adults are usually mindful of smoking zones and child-friendly areas. Perhaps it was an isolated incident that coincided with our visit, or maybe those individuals were unaware of the norms. Rather than losing our sleep on this, we let Kiu splurge in the play area away from the smokers and decided to leave the area sooner than we expected.
After exploring much of the City centre, we were famished. Before heading back to our accommodation, we decided on a restaurant serving traditional Bulgarian restaurant to dine in.
Restaurant Central
It was in the Kapana district, that we found the Restaurant Central specializing in serving genuine Bulgarian cuisine. Our order consisted of a refreshing Shopska Salad, prepared with a delightful combination of tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, onions, and grated white cheese. To complement the salad, we indulged in Tarator, a chilled soup crafted from yogurt, cucumbers, garlic, and dill. Additionally, we savored some grilled vegetables, including peppers, eggplants, and zucchini. Finally, we concluded our meal with a well-deserved serving of yogurt. They have a kid friendly menu too serving popular options like chicken nuggets, French fries, mashed potatoes, spaghetti with tomato sauce etc.
The next day we started early to explore the Old Town of Plovdiv.
Day 2 - Old Town Plovdiv
Plovdiv's old town is also known as the 'Old Town of Plovdiv' or 'The Architectural and Historical Reserve, Characterised by its narrow cobblestone streets, colorful houses with traditional architecture, and ancient ruins, the Old Town provides a charming backdrop for autumn. It is a well-preserved area that showcases the city's rich history and cultural heritage. The old town is home to various historical landmarks, including the Balabanov House, the Ethnographic Museum and the Gate 'Hisar Kapia'. Visitors can explore the charming streets, visit art galleries, enjoy traditional Bulgarian cuisine in local restaurants, and experience the unique atmosphere of the old town.
2.1 Balabanov House
As I travel throughout Europe, I am consistently amazed by the stunning houses found in towns and villages. This admiration is particularly strong after relocating to an expat-friendly city like The Hague, where I am captivated by the way people have preserved their traditional homes amidst all the modern development. Now, just imagine what the most exquisite house in a charming town like Plovdiv would look like. A well-preserved example of Bulgarian National Revival architecture. Mind blowing isn’t it? In Plovdiv, there is a historic building known as the Balabanov house, constructed in the 19th century and once owned by the affluent merchant, Stepan Balabanov.
Featuring traditional architectural elements such as a spacious courtyard, ornate wood-carved ceilings, and colorful frescoes, the Balabanov House is truly exceptional. Today, Balabanov House serves as a museum and cultural center. If you want to know more about the lifestyle and traditions of the Bulgarian Revival period, you can visit this museum and can explore the various rooms, admire the intricate craftsmanship, and learn about the history of the house and its former residents.
It’s a tour you wouldn’t want to miss!
Opening times:
November - March: Mon - Sun 9.00 am - 5.30 pmApril - October: Mon - Sun 9.00 am - 6.00 pm
2.2 Church of St. Constantine and Helena
Just like any other European city, Plovdiv also has its own charming church. The Church of St. Constantine and Helena holds a special place in this beautiful city, located near the Regional Ethnographic Museum. This church is dedicated to the Christian saints, Constantine and Helena, who played important roles in the early days of Christianity.
Don't be deceived by the look of the bell tower, because the church itself is a stunning example of Bulgarian Orthodox architecture, similar to the one found at Rila Monastery. The interiors are adorned by colorful frescoes painted by masters of one of the most famous Bulgarian Icongraphic Schools: the Debar School. And the intricate woodcarvings are truly a sight to behold. It's fascinating to see how the architecture combines influences from Byzantine, Ottoman, and Bulgarian styles. As we always do when we visit a church, we lit candles, offered our prayers, and I reminded myself to delve into the fascinating history of Byzantine and Ottoman rule in Bulgaria once I got back home.
2.3 Hisar Kapia Ancient gate
As we leisurely walked toward Plovdiv's old town, we came upon Hisar Kapia, the medieval gate of the city. 'Hisar Kapia' translates to 'fortress gate' in Turkish. This historical gem has a storied past, tracing its roots all the way back to the 11th century AD, and intriguingly, it was built atop the remains of an ancient Roman gate (probably 2nd century AD). Hisar Kapia is one of the three entrances that lead to the ancient Plovdiv acropolis.
According to local folklore, there is a belief that there is a hidden, locked door within Hisar Kapia. It is said that this door leads to a secret underground passage that stretches beneath the city of Plovdiv. The legend goes on to claim that the passage connects Hisar Kapia to other significant historical sites in the city.
2.4 Regional Ethnographic Museum Plovdiv
Continuing our exploration, we stumbled upon a charming courtyard featuring a well-preserved building showcasing exquisite mid-19th-century Baroque architectural style. For those equipped with a tourist map, this gem would be unmistakably identified as the Regional Ethnographic Museum. It is located in the historic heart of Plovdiv's Old Town. Remarkably, it ranks as the second-largest specialized museum of its kind in Bulgaria. This museum, established way back in 1917, is one of the oldest in Bulgaria and has an impressive track record of preserving and exhibiting the cultural heritage of the region. I'm not sure if you'll have enough time to fully delve into the museum's whopping 60,000 artefacts in 6 different exhibitions, but you'll definitely catch a sneak peek of its archaeological goodies, ethnographic knick-knacks, and artistic masterpieces.
Day 3 - Stroll around the Old Town
3.1 Listen to the melodious tunes of Bulgarian musician buskers
Plovdiv's old town is unique in that it comes alive with the sounds of Bulgarian musician buskers, unlike any other old towns. Instead of experiencing traditional Bulgarian music in a concert hall, we had the privilege of witnessing it on the streets. There was no need to make reservations or visit a music hall to immerse ourselves in the local culture and tradition. We were fortunate enough to witness these buskers in the old town, sitting on small stools and playing instruments such as the accordion, guitar, flute, or traditional Bulgarian instruments like the kaval or gadulka. Their live music filled the air with the essence of local culture and tradition.
A humble request: I kindly ask that you consider tipping buskers whenever you travel, as a gesture of respect for their artistry and talent, and for their courage in fearlessly performing for you.
3.2 Pottery making
When evidence of a traditional practice is found in archaeological sites in the region, you know it’s the stated tradition of the region. That theory supports Plovdiv’s rich history of pottery making.
Our cherished ceramic treasures hail from this historic city, where we acquired two exquisite pieces that never fail to impress our guests with their unique designs. My memory often takes me back to the day we ventured into a workshop, a creative sanctuary where a skilled local artisan was sculpting a magnificent clay vase. There were other products too, including decorative items, tableware, and more.
Watch the video of a local artisan beautifully crafting a clay vase.
Visitors to Plovdiv can explore the city's pottery heritage even in the Ethnographic Museum, which houses a collection of traditional Bulgarian pottery. The museum showcases various pottery techniques and styles, you can learn more about the history and evolution of pottery in the region.
Beyond museum exploration, Bulgaria hosts an annual pottery festival, serving as a vibrant hub for local and international potters. This gathering not only puts their craftsmanship on display but also offers the opportunity to participate in workshops and demonstrations. It's an enriching experience that allows attendees to discover the intricacies of pottery techniques, connect with talented artists, and acquire one-of-a-kind ceramic treasures.
3.3 Ornamental guard harvesting
Amidst our leisurely stroll through the enchanting town of Plovdiv, our eyes fell on a house adorned with a bountiful ornamental gourd-filled backyard. Did you know that harvesting often takes place in the late summer or early autumn when the gourds have fully matured? Filled with curiosity, we approached the door and kindly requested permission from the lady residing there to introduce Kiu to the gourds. With a warm smile, she graciously welcomed us, granting us the opportunity to explore her backyard oasis.
What a rewarding and enjoyable experience! You get to witness the magic of nature firsthand and enjoy the fruits of your labor come harvest time. Moreover you engage in sustainable practices, promote self-sufficiency and reduce your carbon footprint. So Special 💚
Accommodation
One of my most memorable hostel experiences to date (yes, even for families with kids)! This charming Boutique Hostel Old Plovdiv in the heart of the Old Town exudes 19th-century charm, meticulously restored for its current purpose. I adore staying in such vintage properties that immerse me in the local culture. Conveniently situated between the Kapana district and the Old Town, it strikes a perfect balance. The rooms blend comfort with classic design, and modern amenities are at your disposal. The staff is incredibly welcoming, offering complimentary lemonade, coffee, and tea, along with a personalized reception banner bearing your name. Breakfast is served in the cozy lobby area, and don't miss the cool garden space where you can mingle with fellow guests.
Address: Boutique Hostel Old Plovdiv, ulitsa "Chetvarti yanuari", Staria grad, Plovdiv, Bulgaria
If you'd like to splurge a bit, another exceptional place to stay when in Plovdiv is the Gallery 37, BW Premier Collection Hotel. The interiors of the hotel are very artistic and ambeince is very inviting. All the rooms are very tastefully done, with a garden, shared terrace, bar and restaurant. It is a five star property right in the heart of Plovdiv.
Tips for traveling when pregnant:
Since the weather is cool, you won't feel the need to drink water. At least with me, I forget to drink water until I'm parched or its too hot for me. It is essential for pregnant women to stay hydrated, especially during outdoor activities. Bring a water bottle and drink plenty of fluids throughout your visit.
With Europe's famed cobblestone streets, you need to anyway ditch those heels! Always wear comfortable shoes to navigate easily through cobblestone streets and difficult paths. If you want to be more comfortable, wear loose fitting clothing too.
Romanticise the journey! Find a bench, sit hand in hand with your loved one and enjoy the surroundings!
The excitement peaks on holidays, I get it. But it is important to take regular breaks, now and then, to rest and relax, before moving onto the next attraction.
Check the weather forecast before visiting the Roman theatre. Avoid going during extremely hot or cold weather.
My thumb rule is to always carry a hat and a bottle of water. My new best friend is now a sunscreen too!
Needless to say, the safety and well-being of both you and your baby are the top priorities. Enjoy your holiday!
Tip: A great read on Bulgaria's Traditions. Dimana Trankova has captured the essence of Bulgaria's traditions with stunning photography by photography by Anthony Georgieff.
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