Coorg, Recollections from My Hometown
Coorg is where my grandparents lived and thrived,
Where my father finds joy on his estate, nature's beauty revived.
Our family temple stands tall, a symbol of our roots and traditions,
Coorg, not just a place, but a cherished home, with heartfelt convictions.
I am a native born Ammanga or Amma Kodava or Coorgi, from the stunning land of Coorg, also known as Kodagu, a district located in the southwestern part of the Indian state of Karnataka. Coorg, with its awe-inspiring natural beauty of lush coffee and spice plantations, misty hills, and mesmerizing waterfalls, truly stands out as one of India's most captivating tourist destinations. However, as a Coorgi myself, I must admit that we hold a deep love for preserving the untouched beauty of our surroundings. We find solace in the peacefulness of our space and prefer to avoid the crowds that often accompany tourism, as they can disturb the tranquility we cherish.
Having been raised in Mumbai, I have experienced firsthand the chaos, busyness, and sometimes even the dirtiness that can come with city life. This understanding allows me to empathize with the sentiment of the Coorgs who prefer to keep their surroundings pristine. Although I may not have had the same upbringing as my cousins, who were fortunate enough to be raised amidst nature's embrace, I have always cherished the summers spent visiting my grandparents' house in Coorg. Even though I don't reside there, my love for Coorg and its people remains unwavering. And credit to Mom, Coorg lingers, courtesy of her recurrently puckering 'Maddu Puttu' doses 😜 (medicinal cake 🤢)
Come summer holiday in Mumbai, my family and I would escape to my gorgeous coffee hometown Coorg for two whole months. It was a much-needed respite for my mother, as my father was away at sea. Living close to her parents and siblings helped alleviate her loneliness. I have countless memories of Coorg that bring a smile to my face.
I can still feel the excitement as my sister and I ran towards my grandparents, eagerly awaiting their warm hugs on the verandah of their beautiful house in 'Konankatte' (Konanakatte is a small village under Mayamudi Panchayath in Virajpet taluka of Coorg).The courtyard, filled with freshly harvested coffee beans, became our playground, where my cousins and we would play and have endless fun. My Kanoor uncle used to take us to the 'polles', the serene lakes, which were our favorite spots for frolicking and creating unforgettable memories.
Accompanied by my wise grandfather, I would go with him on trips to town ‘Gonikoppal’, where he was greeted by everyone due to his esteemed reputation as a lawyer. My grandmother, lovingly called 'Ammathai', would spoil us grandchildren with delicious meals on the traditional dining table, serving homemade white butter. The flavor of her otti (rice roti), kadambutt (rice balls), paputtu (rice cake), and holige (sweet flatbread) still linger on my taste buds.
The estate was a treasure trove of natural wonders, where we would eagerly pluck butterfruit and oranges, giggling with joy as we filled jute sacks with our harvest. Giggling on bumpy tractor rides with my cool mama to the local mill added to the excitement of our Coorg adventures. As the sun set, my aunts and we- a set of playful goofy children would take peaceful walks to the village temple, offering the jasmine flowers we had gathered along the way.
As night fell, the symphony of crickets would serenade us, while fireflies illuminated the darkness outside our bedroom windows. In this tranquil haven, chaos was nonexistent, and the hustle and bustle of city life seemed worlds away. Time flowed at its own pace, unaffected by the demands of the outside world. There was no internet or constant connectivity, allowing us to fully immerse ourselves in genuine human connection. Here, the focus was on living, communicating, and supporting one another, and nothing else mattered.
Leaving Coorg at the end of my vacation was always difficult. The long bus journey from Coorg to Bangalore, followed by a train ride to Mumbai, was filled with tears as I reminisced about the beautiful moments spent with my family in Coorg. I never wanted to leave, always longing to stay in that peaceful haven. As the years went by, I grew older and eventually got married to a Tamilian who also grew up in Mumbai. Shortly after our marriage, my parents decided to move back to Coorg to be closer to their siblings and extended family. Distance makes the heart grow fonder, and this sentiment held true for them and definitely for my connection with Coorg. Life took its course, and I ended up moving to Dubai and later to the Netherlands. It has been 12 years since I left the country, but a part of my heart will always reside in Coorg.
Despite being away, I make it a priority to visit Coorg every year to reestablish my roots. My parents eagerly await our visits to our ancestral home in Coorg. Mom's culinary magic never fails – be it my beloved baimbale curry (Bamboo Shoot Curry), a grapefruit treat for Bunty, or round round potato for the kiddos. Now offering prayers at the family temple at Shettigeri is is an essential ritual. Puffs and sugar sweetened tea at Srimanagala town's bakery is another ritual. A trip to Coorg is incomplete without savoring the delectable Nuuputtu (rice noodles) and Koli curry (chicken curry) made by the aunty in Ponnampet (Taluka headquarters). Even in the absence of my grandparents, a heartfelt greeting at Konankatte is guaranteed from my dear mami and mama, reminiscent of the warm welcomes my grandparents used to extend on the verandah with tight hugs and the delightful treat of ragi halwa (a sweet dish made from finger millet flour). Having a blast at my aunt's place in Kanoor, surrounded by vibrant coffee plantations and scenic paddy fields; she dazzles me with her globally renowned gobi manchurian and masala dosa, while my handsome cousin now gives my kids thrilling tractor and jeep rides, just like my mama used to do. When visiting my cousin's hertiage home in Kothur, bonfires are a must, and he always convinces us to trek to Tadiandamol or river rafting at Barapole. These are the moments that truly matter, the memories engraved in my mind from each visit to Coorg, lasting a lifetime. I consider myself fortunate to belong to a lineage and community that is rare in a country with a population of over a billion people.
I welcome you to immerse yourself in the breathtaking landscapes of my gorgeous hometown Kodagu (Coorg) and let it weave its spell on you. Now I would be amiss to not express the extent of my gratitude to my beloved hometown.
Behold, my blog posts on Coorg, a wondrous place,
Where I aim to inspire, with a traveler's embrace.
Come explore this heavenly abode, so divine,
Through my words, let your wanderlust truly shine.
super informative