Alkmaar: A Day Trip to Witness the Historic Cheese Market in Netherland's Charming Heart
Updated: May 12
Half of the tourists (perhaps the majority) associate the Netherlands solely with a visit to Amsterdam's Red Light District. But how many consider that this captivating country offers so much more? Home to world-renowned painters like Rembrandt and Vincent van Gogh, it's a land of breathtaking tulip fields in Keukenhof, enchanting canals in Giethoorn, and cheese havens in Gouda and Edam. Not to forget the iconic historic windmills of Zaanse Schaans. Today, I'd like to shine a spotlight on one such place that stands as a beacon of Dutch tradition and charm, celebrated for its cheese market and cultural heritage within the Netherlands.
And boy oh boy! Today is a Friday. Yes, it's a fast approach to the weekend, but it's also the day for the cheese market at Alkmaar! Wat heerlijk! 😃 We meticulously arranged our plans ahead of time, as an extraordinary event like this should not be overlooked. The cheese market at Alkmaar operates exclusively during the spring and summer seasons, commencing with the first market typically held towards the end of March and concluding with the final one towards the end of September.
So, ready were we for a special sun-soaked day at the cheese market in Alkmaar, Netherlands.
How to reach Alkmaar
To reach Alkmaar, there are several options as listed below:
Train: Alkmaar is well connected by train to all the major cities and other lesser known Dutch cities. From Amsterdam central, you can take a train to Alkmaar station which will take you approximately 30-40 minutes to reach. And there are trains from Rotterdam, The Hague, Utrecht etc. too to Alkmaar.
By Car: You can also drive your car to Alkmaar which also takes roughly about the same time as the train journey from Amsterdam. You take the A9 highway. At the Alkmaar parking garage, you pay approximately 2 euros an hour for parking, but mind you the parking garage is quite narrow at the turns to manoeuvre if you drive a big vehicle.
By Bus: If you prefer the intercity bus, that too is an option. You can take a bus from the nearby cities like Amsterdam and Haarlem.
It is most convenient to explore Alkmaar on foot. All the places of interest and historical sites are close to each other and at walkable distance.
Cheese Market
The history of cheese in Alkmaar dates back to 1365, when dairy traders began selling their goods in Waagplein, the town's central square. It is since then that the cheese market has been operating in the Waagplein. It resembles a classic scene from a historical Dutch film, with traders dressed in white outfits and red hats are seen trading large wheels of cheese and gracefully carrying these hefty cheese wheels on traditional wooden barrows, slung over their shoulders. The cheese is then transported to a weigh house or Waag, where it is meticulously weighed and sold, to ensure fair and honest transactions. The porters and traders engage in the exchange of goods, sealing their deals with firm handshakes as a sign of confirmation.
There was someone in charge called the "Cheese Father" who oversaw the whole operation. Back then, he managed four warehousing companies, each employing seven cheese carriers. Women adorned in traditional attire and wooden clogs entice onlookers with a wide array of cheese varieties, by first offering you to sample a few of their best cheeses. We were quick to purchase a packet from one of these beautiful Dutch damsels. Although they stopped selling farmhouse cheese in 1959, the cheese market today still celebrates and remembers this important history. Witnessing this centuries-old tradition in Alkmaar is a huge reminder of the city's rich cultural heritage. Such an important thing to preserve these traditional practices for future generations to appreciate and enjoy.
Opening times:
The market follows a seasonal schedule and is available in the spring and summer months. In 2023, the first cheese market took place on Friday 31 March. It runs every Friday morning and the last cheese market will take place on Friday, September 29. The timings are from 10:00 AM to 1:00 PM. Additionally, there is an evening market held on Tuesday evenings throughout July and August, running from 7:00 PM to 9:00 PM.
Waag
You cannot miss the grandeur of the Waag, as this grand tower is located on the Waagplein itself, where the cheese market occurs. It resembles a chapel because it used to be one called the Holy Spirit hospice, before it was transformed into a weighing house in the 16th century. It is a National monument (Rijksmonument) and a listed building for heritage preservation.
After the Protestants took control of Alkmaar in 1573 and successfully defended it from Spanish soldiers, they repurposed some old Catholic buildings. One of these became a place to weigh goods and store important commodities. They finished fixing it up in 1583. There's a fancy front on the building that shows how proud the people of Alkmaar were of their victory. They even had a saying, "At Alkmaar, victory begins," because what happened in 1573 was a big turning point in the fight against the Spanish rulers. In the ten years following that battle, they fixed up lots of buildings and made the city stronger. Despite many attempts by Spanish forces, they never managed to take it back.
3 notable attractions here:
Here, you can step onto the traditional scale to measure your weight, and you'll receive a certificate indicating your weight in cheese pounds. This enjoyable experience is available for a fee of €1.
This tower houses the cheese museum where you can learn about the history of cheese-making.
The tower also houses a celebrated carillon, which is played weekly by a carillonneur, along with an automatic drum that marks the quarters of the hour.
Additionally, a remarkable feature within the tower is the well-known automatic horse with knights, accompanied by an automated trumpet player.
Street Market
This street market seems to sprawl across the entirety of the city, where all the by-lanes and streets within are lined with shops and stalls, creating an electrifying atmosphere. We commenced our exploration of this street market from the area surrounding the Cheese market. The stalls set up there offered delectable treats such as cheese fondues, poffertjes, frites, sandwiches, fresh juices, and more. In other parts of the market where merchants sold household goods, handicrafts and artistic items, customers engaged in lively bargaining for their purchases. Meanwhile children frolicked around fountains, and others leisurely browsed through the shop windows in the centrum (City Center).
Shopping Center
That brings me to the famous historic Center of Alkmaar that possess shopping streets which include the busy retailers, big chain stores, international brands and local boutiques - De Langestraat and De Laat. There is no dearth for a good shopping experience in Alkmaar considering it suits every shopper’s taste and wallet. If you aren’t pleased with the goods sold in the market stalls, you may always have a look in the air conditioned stores permanently placed in the town Center.
Museums in Alkmaar
Apart from this centuries-old cheese trading tradition to display, this city is also blessed with incredible museums. First and foremost is the Dutch cheese museum which showcases Dutch cheese making process and traditional practices. The other notable museums are the Stedelijk museum and the Beatles museum. The former has exhibits of the city’s art and history, while the latter pays tribute to the renowned band.
Opening times:
Dutch Cheese Museum - 10 AM to 4 PM; Sunday - 1 PM to 4 PM
Stedelijk Museum - 11 AM to 6 PM; Monday closed
Beatles Museum - 11 AM to 4:30 PM; Sunday - 12 PM to 4:30 PM; Monday closed
Grote or Sint-Laurenskerk
This impressive Gothic architecture was formerly a protestant church. It has a soaring tower and intricate stained glass windows. You can visit the church in summer, however in winters, it is closed. For a beautiful view of the city, climb atop the Sint-Laurenskerk tower during sunset.
Opening times: From 23 May to 10 September: open weekly from Tuesday to Sunday, 11:00 AM to 5:00 PM (open on Fridays from 9:00 AM).
Walking Route to other fascinating sights in Alkmaar
By now it is at least established that Alkmaar has more than just the cheese market to offer to visitors and locals. There are several walking routes in the city, however I favour the one that is the prettiest and has the beautiful sights to see.
Start at Bathbrug. At 1 minute walk right of Bathrbrug lies the Statue Truus Wijsmuller-Meijer. Now start your leisurely walk at Bathbrug and walk along Fnidsen street to reach Rotorenburg. Along the way, you will pass the Huis Met de Kogel, a historic building renowned for its captivating bullet hole in the front wall, a lasting trace of a local tale recounting a misfired shot by a French soldier during the early 19th-century French occupation. Wim van Assem Bloembinderij, a charming floral shop known for its exquisite flower arrangements and Groentehandel Kropsla where you can relish hot homemade soups, you can turn at Sant Jacobstraat or walk further to reach Rotorenburg. The other street that includes a plethora of fancy boutiques and eateries is the Hekelstraat. On this street is located the famous museum shop Sweets" Oudhollandse Museum Winkel. The cafe houses in a heritage home that goes back 400 years specializes in traditional Dutch sweets. The shop offers a wide variety of candies, chocolates, and other confections that are reminiscent of the sweets enjoyed in the Netherlands in the past. You can take a tour of the house for free and takeaway hot Lekker coffee for your onward journey.
Some other notable buildings to see are the Noord-Hollandsche Levensverzekerings-Maatschappij 't Hooge Huys on Sint Laurensstraat, a historic insurance company in Alkmaar with a complete brick facade, Alkmaar City Hall on Langestraat
For kids, there is an entertainment zone created on the Gedempte Nieuwesloot starting from the Sint-Laurenskerk. Like a mini Disneyland, it has almost every attraction that a child could crave for.
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Wonderfully written and captured 😊