1 Day in Morocco’s Blue Walled City of Chefchaouen

Not until very recently in 1920 when this normal looking city was taken over by the Spanish was Chefchaouen open to tourism. So what distinguishes the normal city of Chefchaouen and makes it remarkable? What sets it apart from other cities in Morocco? The city painted in various shades of BLUE and from then on Chefchaouen has been referred to as the Blue Pearl or the Blue City.

With the influx of the Jewish community post WW2, when they fled the Nazi persecution, the Jews started to paint the walls, floors and steps BLUE, symbolizing the sky and its spiritual connection. While certain areas of the medina retained their original white appearance, approximately 40 years ago, the entirety of Chefchaouen adopted the blue motif, likely influenced by aesthetic considerations or the desire to attract tourists. Another theory suggests that the city was painted blue to keep it cool in summer and repel mosquitoes. Either way, the blue looks good on Chaouen (as the locals call it) and the locals do a fabulous job in painting and repainting the city blue to heighten its tourist appeal because one way or the other, if not for the surging tourists, the instagrammers are lining their corridors to get plentiful gorgeous shots in the blue soaked city.

Chefchaouen

The name Chefchaouen intrigued me, for one, it was difficult to pronounce like the locals did and second, I wondered what it meant. The name originates from the Berber* term ‘Chef,’ signifying ‘peaks’ or ‘horns,’ and ‘Chaouen,’ representing the twin mountain peaks Jebel Bouhachem and Jebel Tisouka that command the region's skyline.

*Berber are the people of the native ethnic group of North Africa, predominantly residing in areas like Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, as well as portions of Mauritania, Mali, and Niger.

Where is Chefchaouen?

Situated in Northwest Morocco, the city of Chefchaouen sits in the foothills of the Rif mountains at 600 metres, with the mountain of Jebel el-Kelaa (1,616m) behind it and Jebel Tisouka (2,118m) also nearby. It’s a 2.5 hours drive from the port of Tangier and 3.5 hours drive from Fes. The drive is unlike any other! I pictured Morocco to be an arid desert and the drive to have sweeping views of dry land with shrubs here and there but the landscape surprised me. Covering nearly 300,000 acres, the forest land surrounding Chefchaouen, reachable within a few hours' drive, ranks among Morocco's most biodiverse regions. En route from Tangier to Chaouen, we were treated to breathtaking vistas of rugged cliffs and verdant cedar and pine forests.

Where to stay in Chefchaouen?

Now Chaouen is normally not a place where tourists spend the night. It’s mostly a day trip from nearby destinations like Fes or Tangier. Nevertheless, as we journeyed from northern Tangier to southern Marrakech, we opted to break our trip with an overnight stay in Chefchaouen. Among the accommodations we considered, Aparthotel Dar Nowara Chaouen stood out for its immaculate cleanliness. Conveniently located opposite the mosque in the city center, just a few minutes' walk from the main entrance of Bab Al Ein of the Chaouen Medina, it seemed like the perfect choice. However, one downside was the early morning call to prayer broadcasted loudly from the mosque across the street at 6:15 AM, which was not particularly appreciated.

• Hotel Alkhalifa: Provides cozy accommodations with a hint of traditional Moroccan flair.

• Torre Hadra: Renowned for its sweeping vistas of the blue city and the surrounding mountains. Initially our top choice, but regrettably had to cancel due to unforeseen circumstances on our end.

• Casa Blue Star: A delightful riad boasting distinctive blue-themed décor that captures the essence of Chefchaouen.

• Lina Ryad & Spa: Nestled in the heart of the Medina, this establishment is possibly the finest and most luxurious option available. However, please note that there is no elevator, so consider the task of hauling your luggage up the stairs. Opting for rooms on the first floor is recommended for convenience.

• Dar Echchaouen Maison d'hôtes & Riad: A serene guesthouse and riad offering a tranquil atmosphere for your stay.

We parked our car outside the mosque on the adjacent street, parallel to our aparthotel, without any parking fee. Naturally, we gave a small tip to the attendant who watched over our car for the night.

Where to park your car?

If you lack accommodation with secure parking, fear not;

• There’s a supervised parking area at the upper part of the Medina. You can find it at Bab el Mahrouk, Rue Autiui, Chefchaouen, Morocco. The cost is 20 MAD for a 24-hour period.

• This Parking in the city center Parking place Outa Al Hamam is convenient, although it may reach maximum capacity. The cost is 30 MAD for a 24-hour period. The car park is located next to the Parador Hotel on Avenue Hassan 2.

• Parking Jour et Nuit - A good spot to park your car in Chefchaouen. It's indoors and has about 20 spaces, so you'll likely find a spot. Plus, it's affordable at only 40 MAD per night and 20 MAD for one day. Near the best restaurants and next to famous Hotel Madrid.

• Parking is available on Allal Ben Abdellah Avenue. It's priced at 10 Dhs for a day, 20 Dhs for a night, and 50 Dhs for 24 hours. Conveniently situated near the medina, it's within walking distance. GPS: 35°09'57.2"N 5°15'43.5"W

Where to exchange money?

Bank of Africa is your go to place ! The most suitable bank in Chaouen for foreigners to withdraw dirhams is the Bank of Africa on Boulevard Hassan 2 in Chefchaouen.

You can also exchange your money at competitive rates at the Chaouen bureau de change located at 4 rue my ali chakour. It's just a short walk from the main square.

Getting into the old walled Medina of Chefchaouen

When you arrive in Chefchaouen, Bab El Ain is your gateway into the heart of the city. Stroll past the charming park crafted by the Spanish army, Plaza Mohammed V, adorned with vibrant orange trees, until you reach the weathered brown walls of Bab El Ain, nestled beside Plaza Ronda. Enter through the gate, veer right, and begin your ascent through streets painted in soothing shades of blue, heading towards the bustling Plaza Uta El Hamman, with the lively Bazaar Rayan Chefchaouen along the way.

Place El Haouta and Place Uta El Hamman

There are two main squares in Chefchaouen, Place El Haouta and the bigger and more popular of the two is Uta El Hamman or Square Uta El Hamman. Here you will find the main Kasbah, many touristic restaurants and two main streets leading up and through the Medina. While there's still time to reach the Square from the main entrance, take a leisurely stroll to soak in the charm of the neatly arranged blue houses and their surroundings. The walls and floors painted in shades of blue resemble chalk, creating a unique ambiance, further enhanced by the bustling bazaar nearby. Exploring Chefchaouen feels like stepping into a whole new world, and I'm thrilled I had the chance to experience it even for just a day!

Helpful advice: Certain renowned doorways and alleys may require a small fee for photography, so be prepared to have change in Euros or MAD in case you're asked for payment, typically ranging from 1 to 5 MAD per photo or per person depending on the location.

Ethnographic Museum of Chefchaouen

Upon reaching Place El Haouta, we noticed the Kasbah museum nearby. For those with an interest and sufficient time, delving into Chefchaouen's rich history is possible by visiting the Kasbah Museum. Here, the cultural fabric of the region unfolds through various exhibits and artifacts, including regional costumes, musical instruments, folk art, and pottery. However, there are two drawbacks to consider: firstly, tourists are charged 60 MAD per person, a significantly higher fee compared to the 10 MAD charged for locals, which is relatively steep compared to Kasbah museums in Tangier and Rabat. Secondly, the explanations provided for the exhibits are primarily in Spanish or Arabic, with only half of the exhibition being explained in French.

Kasbah

Next, we made our way to the bustling Uta El Hamman square, another popular spot. Here, the square was filled with numerous vibrant restaurants, shops, the Kasbah, and the Grand Mosque. The Kasbah, a fortified citadel nestled within the Medina, caught our attention. On the Portuguese tower, we found information about Chefchaouen, covering its history, culture, and prominent historical figures. Unfortunately, there was no English translation available, only Arabic, Spanish, and French.

The Grand Mosque

While entry into the Grand Mosque is restricted, you can still pause for a moment of reflection outside this magnificent sanctuary in the heart of the square. Particularly during the call to prayer, known as Azaan, the atmosphere becomes tranquil as the echoes of prayers fill the air. The mosque's exterior entrance and minaret are adorned with decorative elements, offering a glimpse of its beauty from the outside. It was constructed in the late 15th century.

Medina

Now to my most awaited part of Chefchaouen - The Medina - basically the stretch of shops selling wondrous stuff right out of Ali Baba’s found cave of treasures and the mesmerizing blue decorated corridors and alleys.

From the Kasbah, there are two main entries to the Medina. One, from the Kasbah you make your way to Rue Sidi Ahmed El Quafi and follow the path right up to Ras El Ma, the waterfalls and the other one is via Rue Ibn Asskar and Al Hassan 1. As we wandered amidst the vibrant blue-washed buildings, each turn gifted us with a breathtaking scene that felt like stepping into our own dream world. We started on this route and were accompanied by shops and stalls all the way through winding alleys until we reached the foothills of the Rif mountains. With local artisans and vendors absorbing the unique charm of this azure-hued haven, the walk was quite adventurous.

Helpful advice: Do not buy anything at the first shop you visit. Explore the entire bazar or souk and get your hands on exquisite pieces, remember them, haggle to lower the prices and finally you will get your money’s worth.

Things you should definitely buy in Chefchaouen

• Visit Aroma Argan for a variety of argan oil products, including soaps, perfumes, and amlou. They make amlou in-store with natural honey, organic argan oil, and fresh almonds. You can sample their products too. They offer different sizes and also sell other natural and organic beauty and hair products, mostly argan-based. Don't miss out on this store in Chefchaouen!

• If you're looking for Berber handwoven rugs, head to the Rugs, Blankets Hand Weaver's Cooperative, L'Art de l'Artisanat berbère. You'll find the best quality handwoven rugs made by local Berber women here. They might be a bit expensive for tourists, but you can try bargaining for a good deal. There's no pressure to buy, and you can enjoy a nice cup of mint tea.

• Bazar Hicham is known for its handwoven clothes like ponchos, blankets, and djellabas. The shop is worth a visit just to watch the artisan handweaving his next project on the loom.

• For bronze, copper, and metal artifacts and jewelry, you can find beautiful pieces at various shops in the Medina. I picked up my most beautiful silver shell stone cask mosaic metal bag which is basically an antique ethnic clutch purse in Chefchaouen and I’m so thrilled you’ll!

• La Botica de La Abuela Aladdin is the place to go for Palm cane baskets and bags. They're made in the neighboring village Beni Saïd with dwarf palm and come in various forms like baskets, mats, hats, and bags.

• You can buy bright Moroccan dry paint, natural color dyes, and powdered pigments from many shops in the Medina.

• Aladin the Herboriste is the best spot for spices like paprika, cumin, saffron, and herbal teas. This two-level shop also sells incense.

• Don't forget to buy a traditional cooking pot tagine as a souvenir or for your home from one of the many vendors in the Medina. They come in glazed, unglazed, or painted varieties.

Ascend the Spanish mosque for stunning views of Chefchaouen

The Spanish Mosque sits on a hill overlooking Chefchaouen to the east, and you can only reach it by walking. It takes about 30 to 45 minutes to walk there from the Bab El Onsar Gate.

We didn't go up there ourselves, but if you want to, you can climb to the top of the Spanish Mosque. From there, you'll see amazing panoramic views of Chefchaouen's blue landscape against the mountains.

Where and What to Eat in Chefchaouen

As the day went on, we grew tired from walking through the winding lanes of the Medina. So, indulging in traditional Moroccan hot dishes at the lively Uta El Hamman Square revived my energy.

• Don't miss trying the comforting bessara soup, made from pureed fava beans seasoned with cumin and paprika.

• Sample the spiced vegetable Harira soup, prepared with chickpeas and lentils.

• For outstanding food and hospitality, head to Bilmos. Offering a variety of vegan dishes, their star dish is the Arrabiatta Tagine, making it a must-visit in Chefchaouen.

• Taste the freshly-made goat cheese, which pairs deliciously with hot baked bread. You can find it sold by local vendors on the streets or try it for free with fresh olives at Restaurantu El Wiam.

• If you're craving something different, head to Cafe Clock. It's a fascinating place with a lively atmosphere, featuring local bands playing every Sunday. With four floors to choose from, you'll enjoy great food too! Travelers recommend trying the Camel burger and Mint lemonade, but I'd suggest letting those camels roam free!

• For a panoramic view of the mosque and Kasbah, dine on the top floor of Cafe Aladdin in Uta El Hamman Square.

• Always end your meal with a steaming cup of Moroccan mint tea.

Berber Caravan Market

If you enjoy visiting fruit and vegetable markets and want to experience some local culture, I highly recommend checking out the markets on Mondays and Thursdays. Just take a walk to the souk on Av Maghrab Arabe for a taste of real Morocco.

Things you shouldn't miss!

🔹 Drink lots of orange juice 🍊🍊🍊because of the good weather for growing citrus fruits, there are plenty of oranges in this area. Vendors in the Medina make freshly squeezed juice, which is popular with tourists.

🔹 Cats! Be careful not to step on any sneaky little cats darting around the maze of alleys. Cats are loved in this blue town, and taking care of them is encouraged because of Islamic beliefs.

🔹 Try a Chebakia, a crispy snack made of fried dough and sprinkled with sesame seeds and honey.

Final thoughts

If you really like Chefchaouen and want more time to enjoy it peacefully, you might decide to stay overnight. This way, you can take your time exploring all the amazing things it has to offer. Or, if you need to get back to Fes soon, you can leave, but you'll always remember the magic of Chefchaouen's blue beauty.